Fruit and nut trees for zone 9



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Fruit and nut trees for zone 9

JIM: So basically you have to find out what your CCA and GSC are for your particular area and where they meet to determine what the best possible class of tree is for you to grow.

As for inbreeding, you are referring to genotypes bred at the same site, such as from the same orchard, but you are correct that you cannot get from the best orchard tree the same trees or cultivars as those grown by farmers within the larger planting system. From that perspective, you could likely compare three or four trees from each family, if you could find them all, and grow what would be the most economically useful cultivar from the evaluation. Your percentages are quite high.

DAVID: I agree, probably because the population size is less than 1,000.

This is a list of comments. The location and standard field mnemonics can be found on the next screen. This page has the same mnemonics as the first. The 3-field mnemonics can be found on this page.

Rotation: It is my understanding that apples with trees in them will not get the cold that apples from orchards will get when in their rotation. So at my orchard, I have 2 apple varieties in the orchard which are almost always planted 1 to 1 in new years and both produce well. I am supposed to plant only one new variety every year but I rotate them so the cold hardening is done evenly and I am not left with a bunch of un-transplanted "second year apples". So I grow apples on the same trees from year to year. One of the apples has been my favorite, and I have switched to it over all the others, for years, but if I switch to the other one, I start producing apples that are not as good as the one I had.So I will save apples like that for 2-3 years and then I start from scratch with them. This is why I was asking about the cold hardening. Can I leave the old trees alone and just take a few out of the orchard every year? If I do this, will I lose all the quality because it is from apples planted on the same trees year after year?

In your situation I think you will have to pick out apples from the other family of trees, perhaps every 3rd year or so, which is a good way to work around your problem. I am not exactly sure how that rotation would look, as I have done it. But the top 10 apples from each tree would be at least 3 years apart and thus would be far enough apart to work for a rotation. You might lose a tree or two that has been left too long. I can't give you a magic number of years for your rotation, though. I don't know what percentage of the trees you are picking from will produce good fruit every year, but with your numbers of years of overlap, I would guess 1 year would be enough.

I don't think you are inbreeding the apples. If you are a semi-pro, you may be a little short on this information, but if you grow your trees at the same time, from the same tree seed, and in the same orchard, I can't see inbreeding taking place. You are planting what you like, and in a small population, with limited variation, like yours, you may be inbreeding some of your trees.

I don't think you are inbreeding the apples. If you are a semi-pro, you may be a little short on this information, but if you grow your trees at the same time, from the same tree seed, and in the same orchard, I can't see inbreeding taking place. You are planting what you like, and in a small population, with limited variation, like yours, you may be inbreeding some of your trees.

The trees are on the same site every year and not planted at the same time. I think you have all the info you need. If there is a likelihood of inbreeding, I can give you some details.

Rotation: It is my understanding that apples with trees in them will not get the cold that apples from orchards will get when in their rotation. So at my orchard, I have 2 apple varieties in the or


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Comments:

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